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The first part of this article looked at
gaps and holes around a single lap tile. The second part looks at double
lap slates and tiles and a few general issues.
Slates, being thin rectangular sheets of stone, fibre cement, or resin
slate, are inherently simpler, and yet more sophisticated than tiles, as
the gaps between the surfaces are less controlled – especially with
stone slates that are rough/irregular, unlike most slates that are
If constructed correctly, all slates should lay
parallel with each other, and gaps between them should be sufficiently
small to allow a meniscus of water to build up between faces. The shape
of the meniscus will be different on the top surface of the slate than
it will be on the underside due to the double-lap arrangement.
Rough slates have less of a problem with water trapped
between the slates, while very smooth slates, like fibre cement, will
attract the most water. The larger the gaps between the slates, the more
air movement there will be between the slates, which helps to dry them
out quicker and reduces the risk of frost damage.
The more air that can be sucked between the slates, the
more wind uplift load is taken by the underlay, and the less load is
taken by the slate itself. Therefore, slates with gaps of two and three
millimetres between them will perform better in high winds than those
that are tight-fitting.
To prevent insects and bats entering the roof, the gaps
should not be more than 4mm. This also applies to side-laps, where the
slates are thicker than 4mm – side-lap gaps should not exceed 4mm. Where
the thickness of the slate is 4mm or less, the side-lap gaps can exceed
But with fibre cement slates fixed with copper disc
rivets, the gap should not be less than 2mm, or greater than 9mm,
otherwise the copper disc will either not fit, or can pull through the
Slates in contact with each other will rub due to the
thermal movements of the roof. This will cause the surfaces of the slate
to abrade, resulting in a grey powder between the slates. While abrasion
will occur between all roofing materials, it appears to be more
noticeable with slates, as they are flatter.
With stone slates, which are very irregular, it was
traditional to back-bed them with lime mortar to prevent wind, birds and
insects gaining entry to the roof. In many instances, this has been
replaced with an unsightly mortar bedded joint, which prevents the
slates from breathing and locks them together, making them more
vulnerable to frost damage and breakage.
Traditional double-camber plain tiles can have gaps between them of up
to 15mm high and 160mm wide, but, due to the steep pitch of the roof,
they do not suffer from water ingress. The camber in the width/length of
the tiles prevents water being trapped between the tiles. The gaps allow
air to circulate and keep the clay dry. Single camber clay tiles rely
upon a dense clay that will not absorb as much water, but unfortunately,
because air does not circulate between the tiles as easily as with
double-camber tiles, they do tend to deteriorate first on the underside.
With double-camber tiles, the large gaps will allow large
insects and small rodents to enter the batten cavity, and it is
therefore much more important to have a good underlay to prevent them
accessing the rest of the roof than with a single-camber tile.
The gaps can be reduced by using
cross-cambered tiles, which have a curved top and a straight bottom in
their width. This type is generally manufactured in concrete.
It has been observed that clay plain tiles and natural slates treated on
the underside with spray-applied polyurethane foam may suffer from
premature breakage, attributed to the gaps between the tiles being
filled with a material that prevents air from circulating around them,
so restricting the drying process and increasing the risk of frost
Also, the foam insulation locks together all the
elements and restricts the natural thermal movement of the tiles and
slates, which can result in the exposed section expanding in strong
sunlight and contracting in cold weather, and the foam embedded section
responding at a slower rate – causing stress in the material.
If a hole is drilled through the face of a tile or
slate, it should be replaced or, if the hole is for a very good reason,
it should be protected with a suitable material, such as a neoprene tap
washer under a screw head, or a suitable mastic or sealant around the
fitting/fixing to prevent any water seeping down the hole.
Wind-driven snow penetrates the smallest of gaps in a roof
covering. Because it is almost impossible to stop, it is essential to
have a good secondary roof covering of underlay that will collect the
snow and drain the melt water away into the eaves gutters.
Gaps and holes are a compromise. Spaces between tiles and slates need to
be big enough to allow air to circulate to reduce the risk of frost
damage, while not being too big to allow large insects and small bird
and animals to get into the roof. Meanwhile, the gaps should be as small
as possible to keep out the rain and the wind, but be big enough to let
water drain out and slow the wind down. Gaps are needed to allow the
system to function; sealing up, and locking together, roofing elements
will result in cracking and breakage of the slates or tiles.
- Small gaps between slates reduce the
effects of capillarity, and help to prevent water reaching the nail
- Double-camber plain tiles can resist
frost better than single-camber plain tiles.
- Wind-driven snow will penetrate even
the smallest gaps, requiring the underlay to catch the snow and
prevent it entering the roof.
- All gaps should be kept to less than
16mm to keep out small birds, and less than 4mm to keep out large
by Chris Thomas, The Tiled Roofing Consultancy, 2 Ridlands Grove,
Limpsfield Chart, Oxted, Surrey, RH8 0ST, tel 01883 724774